Dutch Pea Soup

(from A Taste of Elegance Cookbook, Rudi Sodamin)
Yields 12 servings

Dutch cuisine is famous for Gouda cheese and maatjesharing (young herring eaten slightly salted but essentially raw), but the pea soup called snert is an icon. It has many variations, but is usually very thick and contains pork. To achieve the correct consistency, make the soup a day in advance and then reheat it.

Ingredients
  • 1 pound green split peas (do not soak)
  • 1 gallon water, plus extra as needed
  • ½ pound pork product (ham steak, pork hock, or spareribs) or 2 pigs' feet
  • ½ pound unsmoked streaky bacon or pork, preferably with rind
  • 1 large onion, diced
  • 1 large carrot, peeled and diced
  • 1 leek, white and light green parts only, well washed and diced
  • 1 celery root, peeled and diced
  • 1 potato, peeled and diced
  • ½ pound smoked pork sausage or frankfurters
  • Leaves and inner sprigs only from 1 bunch celery, coarsely chopped
  • Salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • White bread or pumpernickel, as an accompaniment

Preparation

Rinse peas in a sieve under running water. In a soup pot, bring 2 quarts water peas, ham steak (or other pork product), and bacon to a boil. Skim off any floating scum. Remove meat with tongs and strain peas from liquid, discarding liquid. Rinse peas again and return them and meat to empty pot. Add 2 quarts fresh water and bring to a simmer over medium heat.

After peas and meat reach a gentle simmer, add onion, carrot, leek, celeriac, and potato to pot and continue to simmer. After 1½ hours, ad whole smoked sausage (or frankfurters) and celery leaves and sprigs. When peas are soft and broken down (about 2 hours total cooking time), take meat out of pot with tongs, remove rind and bones, and cut meat into small pieces. Return meat to pot. Season soup with salt and pepper and remove from heat.

The pea soup will still be fairly liquid; let it cool completely and reheat it the next day*, removing the whole sausage (or frankfurters) first and slicing it thinly before returning it to the soup.

To serve, ladle soup into large bowls and serve with bread.

* Note: Reheat smaller portions of soup in a microwave and larger portions in an ovenproof pot in a moderate oven, stirring occasionally, or on top of the stove over low heat, stirring occasionally, so the bottom doesn't burn.